

Suunto Blog

Kilian Jornet’s game plan for speed ascent of Everest
Suunto ambassador Kilian Jornet is acclimatizing in the Himalaya so he can attempt to set a fastest known time (FKT) record on the highest mountain in the world – Everest. We caught up with him and found out the game plan for his daring project.
It’s literally the “high point” of his Summits of My Life project – alpinist, runner and adventurer Kilian Jornet’s personal mission to set ascent and descent records on the most important mountains on the planet, culminating with Everest.
Denali, Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro – all have seen records fall to Kilian. But now he’s readying himself for the ultimate challenge.
He has been preparing for months. Intense training, sleeping nights at 4500 m in the European Alps, and now he's in Nepal, doing the same at 6000 m.
“The highest I have been is 7700 m,” Kilian says. “I was feeling good then, but there is a big difference after 8200 m and after 8500 m.
“It’s really important to be well acclimatized to around 6000 m. So I will spend many nights at around this altitude. And then it’s important I go to around 8000 m before the attempt.”
Kilian and his team has arrived in Kathmandu and is getting ready for the expedition.
Depending on how well he acclimatizes, Kilian expects to make a FKT (fastest known time) attempt around mid September. It also depends on weather and snow conditions.
The plan is a light and fast, alpine-style ascent. He will carry only what he can fit a backpack. To keep weight down, he and his team have designed light, but warm boots made for purpose. He won’t be fixing ropes or using supplementary oxygen on the ascent. He will attempt the ascent from the north side, via either Norton-couloir or Horbein-couloir depending on conditions.
Two previous ascents are in the back of Kilian’s mind as time references. The first is a speed record set by Italian mountaineer Hans Kammerlander in 1996. Hans climbed from Base Camp to the summit of Everest via the North Col in 17 hours. The second reference is an “unprecedented and unrepeated” ascent in 1986 by Swiss climbers Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet. They climbed the North Face via the Hornbein-couloir in a single alpine-style push without oxygen, ropes, or tents and descended again – all in 43 hours.
“It’s good to know these times as a reference for pace at altitude,” Kilian says. “I will take this as knowledge and will see how far I can go."
“It’s a big mountain, and we have a long term perspective. We will try this year, but probably we will need to come again next year."
“You need to go for it so if conditions are good and if I’m feeling good, I should try. But it’s important to have the patience to wait for this good moment.”
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This is how Kilian prepares for Everest
Main image: © Daniel Prudek/Shutterstock.com

5 invaluable staged trail race training tips
“Commit to the training before you commit to the race” – Trail runner, Rene Unser.
Image: Carrie Karsgaard (Feature image: Nathan Karsgaard)
Canadian Rene Unser, who will race the Gore-Tex Trans Alpine Run for the sixth time this year, is a trained coach with 13 years experience. She has also put together the official training plans for the epic Alpine race. So if anyone can give some helpful training tips it’s Rene, here’s what she had to say:
Commit to training
“Commit to the training before you commit to the race,” says Rene. She knows how big a time commitment a long distance race can be. A training schedule is also key, she adds: “To be successful it’s important to build up slowly, and train consistently. Find a training schedule that works for you and really dial that down.”
Mimic the race terrain
Do you know whether you’ll be running on hills or flat? Find out says Rene: “Mimic the terrain you will find during the race as much as you can! This can be hard for people who don’t live near the mountains, but it’s worth travelling to get there when you can."
Image: Schneider outdoor vision
Test your equipment
“Test your equipment and spend time running with your bag packed as it would be during different stages,” says Rene. All races are different, with some equipment being mandatory, she adds: “Learn how to use poles efficiently if they are permitted in your race, and if you choose to use them.”
Get your nutrition spot on
Of course fuelling before and after a race can make a huge difference, and Rene works with what she’s given in any particular race. She says: “I train with Hammer Nutrition Perpetuem with water and Hammer Gels. Before a race I start to practice with the food I’ll get at the aid stations. For TAR this is salami, cheese and cake. I am able to supplement with what’s provided if I have my staples. I aim for 120 to 150 calories an hour during a race.”
Take it easy
“A lot of people will cram a lot of races into a season, and it’s natural to want to do this,” says Rene. But try not to, she adds: “They want to squeeze in a 50k race as that’s what one stage in the race might be like. I caution all my athletes training for races like TAR not to have too many late season races, as it uses up valuable training time, by the time you factor in your taper and recovery.
Follow Rene on her website, Facebook, instragram and personal website.

How yoga can make you a better mountain runner
Italian yoga teacher and mountain runner Tite Togni tells us why the two are a perfect match.
Image (and feature image) Richard Bull, Trail Running Nepal
To be a successful mountain runner the body and mind must be working in harmony before, during and after a race. Pioneering mountain runner and experienced Iyengar yoga teacher, Tite Togni, has known for a long time what most runners are now finding out – yoga is a perfect addition to any training schedule. We had a chat with Tite to find out why yoga is so great for runners, here’s what she had to say.
Tell us a little about yourself
I am an Italian Iyanger yoga certified teacher. In the past I was a professional figure skater, so sport has always been part of my life. I stopped pro-sports for two decades when I had kids and a family life. I got back into running when I had more time and I found the more I trained and raced, the more I went to the yoga mat. Training could not give me balance – the balance in life, mind and body. Being stressed in competitions became ok, as long as I got back to the mat. I decided this was something I could give to other sports people.
And yoga, how did you get into that?
I started yoga in 1989, in Los Angeles while studying at university, because I had some back pain. It was like anyone’s first experience of yoga – I felt the relief in my whole back. In sports your core is your abs, at the front, but in yoga the core is your spine. That was my first enlightenment, and it has never stopped!
You’ve been a bit of a pioneer in linking yoga and running?
Twenty years ago I tried to communicate basic yoga to runners, but runners were the last people that thought they needed yoga. Times have changed a lot. Lots of athletes are finding it necessary to practice yoga during cross training on a regular basis.
What benefits can yoga bring to runners?
What they gain is health for the mind and body. The muscles, tendons, ligaments and flexibility are better of course, but the mind is equally important. With yoga practice the mind is always focused. Learning to be present not just during the race, but every day so you’re able to make that decision on whether today is ok to run, or not. This is important for injury prevention.
Image by Stefano Marta, Mandala Trail
What type of yoga should runners do?
Before running you want to warm up the body and mind, get maximum oxygen delivery. Everyone has heard of the Sun Salutation. That opens up all parts of the body, every cell wakes up! After running you don’t need that. When running you really use the body, so most spaces are full and tight, joints get stiff and oxygen doesn’t flow. Use restorative practises, the spine and sitting poses that open up the chest and hips and lengthen the body.
What about injury prevention and recovery?
The best use of yoga to prevent injury is the ability to be present. Most injuries don’t come from over use but from not listening to the body in stressful moments, the moment before the injury occurs. Many injuries are due to misalignment in the spine and the right or left parts of the body. The use of props can help get into a pose even when injured.
Is there a danger with static stretching for runners, as opposed to dynamic stretching?
My guru, BKS Iyengar, would always say: “breath is king of the mind – the measure for everything is breath.” Static stretching can be dangerous if you don’t breathe. You can hold any pose if you keep breathing, today three breaths, tomorrow 10 - that is progression. Dynamic stretching can be dangerous, as can anything - sitting on the couch can be dangerous! If you don’t let the breath flow and feel every moment and every movement, if there is to be flow you must have no obstacles.
Is it best to have a teacher, like you had?
It is important to start practising with direct guidance. Now there are more online courses and with many sports people being so busy it’s easy to just practice online. But that can be misleading. The millennial success of yoga has been in direct transmission of experience, 'parampara' which means from teacher to student, in continuous feedback, to progressively gain self awareness and then you can continue alone too.
Find out more about Tite on instagram, Facebook and Twitter.

Getting more from your Ambit than just basic stats
Coach to elite ultra runners Jason Koop says there’s more training insights we can get from our Ambits than most of us realise.© zooom.at/bergermarkus.com
When it comes to trail running, coach Jason Koop says gaining meaningful information demands more effort than required for cycling or road running. “Coach Koop” – as his athletes call him – has recently published a book called Training Essentials for Ultrarunning, which condenses the knowledge he’s amassed over his sixteen-year career. It’s received positive reviews and is a must on the bookshelf of every dedicated trail runner. He’s also the director of coaching at trainright.com and is a big fan of using cutting-edge technology like Suunto Ambits to achieve better training results.© zooom.at/bergermarkus.com
There’s more in there
Koop says many trail runners don’t know how to extract high value information from their “wrist-top computers”. It takes more effort and know-how than gaining high quality information for cycling and road running via power meters and pace.
“It’s the same type of information – how hard the workout was, what energy systems were tapped into, how much stress was put on the body, but the tools are different and with trail running it takes a few more steps to extract it,” Koop says.
© zooom.at/bergermarkus.com
Trail running makes it tricky
When it comes to cycling and road running this is easier, says Koop, because it’s simply a matter of calculating the time of a workout session with the power output for cycling or the pace for running. This simple formula makes it easy to score how hard and stressful a workout was.
“It’s not as easy with trail running because you have all these other factors like the trail surface and the elevation gain and loss so you can’t work it out as easily – it just takes a few more steps to extract meaning from the information,” Koop says. “A lot of trail runners are stuck at the information stage.”
© zooom.at/bergermarkus.com
Moving past the basic numbers
Numeric information such as distance, time, elevation gain and loss, pace and heart rate are interesting, Koop says, but in of themselves don’t offer the necessary insight to build and guide a systematic trail running training programme. Achieving this, he says, requires a “physiological tie-in”.
“There’s a big difference between just looking at the usual information your watch records versus using all of it to determine how hard the workout was, how much training stress was involved, and which energy systems were tapped into. That's the bridge that ultimately needs to be gapped – taking the statistical information and having an actual training tie in.”
© zooom.at/bergermarkus.com
Taking the next steps
There are two key steps to get past the information stage.
“Firstly, you need to normalise your pace so when you’re running a 10 minute per mile pace uphill you know what pace that equates to on the flats. Strava and Training Peaks have algorithms that do this for you. This gives you an apples to apples comparison for workouts that have different elevation gains. This first step sharpens the picture of the workout from a blurred mess to something where meaningful analysis can take place. It allows you to see how hard a workout was.
“The second step is to compartmentalise the aerobic stress a workout session generates, which is predominantly during the up hill and flat sections, from the muscular-skeletal stress predominantly generated in the downhill sections.
“If your normalized pace on the flats and uphills are getting better, your aerobic system is adapting. Similarly, if you are handling the total amount of descending or the rate of descending better, your muscular-skeletal system is adapting.”

How to use Suunto AIM-6 Thumb Compass
Mårten Boström says that the process of developing a new compass was an interesting one. “I have realized how much I as an elite orienteer can give insight to the product development team into how the product is actually used,” Boström says.
The team came up with an innovative design that supports three methods of direction finding. You can easily switch between methods, even during the same event, to match the challenges of your current terrain or the distance to the next control point.
With the AIM compasses it is possible to find and follow the direction in different ways. Which methods do you use and when?
On short legs I simply place the compass on the control leg and turn my body facing the next control to align the map meridians and needle north.
After I have picked a distinguishable object in the terrain to aim for I check which color/symbol -combination the north arrow is pointing to and aim for that same visual combination on every glimpse while proceeding towards the next control.
If I only need a course direction towards a big object (e.g. a lake) I might just use a whole sector in a similar manner.
On long legs I turn the compass capsule so I can see the north arrow fit in the orienting indicator – thus I don't need to keep the compass on top of the map on the rest of the leg.
In all of these I'm of course AIMing into the correct direction where the red arrow on the far end of the compass plate is.
The new Suunto AIM-6 can be used with a magnifying lens. When do you use that?
A loupe (or magnifying lens) is starting to be a popular accessory even for orienteers with good eyesight. There are more and more details on the maps nowadays and the loupe really helps.
Place the loupe in front of the thumb compass so that you can see the corner of the compass baseplate but mainly magnifying the map.
READ MORE
Learn more about the new AIM-6 and AIM-30 compasses
World champion’s 10 tips for orienteering
Meet the orienteer who runs a 2h 18m marathon

DEVELOPING A NEW ORIENTEERING COMPASS IS A TEAM EFFORT
Today we are launching two new orienteering compasses at the Jukola relay in Lappeenranta, Finland. Both the new Suunto AIM-6 thumb compass and the AIM-30 baseplate compass were developed together with Sprint Orienteering World Champion Mårten Boström .
Mårten, when did you start working on this project?
I have been involved in the development of Suunto's new orienteering compass line from the beginning of the year.
Product development is exciting as I have realized how much I as an elite orienteer can give insight to the product development team into how the product is actually used.
Mårten Boström worked closely with Suunto's compass business line manager Henrik Palin and designer Heikki Naulapää.
What did you want to change or improve?
As the compass is an orienteer's most precise aiding tool in navigating it's been an interesting task to refine the current compass to become an even better friend when out in the woods.
I wanted to redesign the needle in order to achieve a better contrast on to the map, make the needle much more stable while keeping it fast and take away some markings on the baseplate.
The graphics on the baseplate and the compass capsule were designed based on Mårten’s feedback.
Since the use of the compass needs to be swift I wanted to add color and symbol codes on the edge of the bezel so that there's no need to rotate the compass capsule. Using the colors and symbols one can simply memorize where the arrow is aiming and advance rapidly.
Our goal was to make the colors and symbols on the AIM distinguishable but easily memorable.
What are the key characteristics of a great compass?
A great compass should be easy to use and have a fast & stable needle.
How do you actually test a compass?
The compass is best tested in actual orienteering conditions out in the forest where temperatures vary from -10°C to +35°C and twigs hit your face while you are trying to navigate through unknown terrain over hills and through marshes!
Learn more about the new AIM-6 Thumb Compass
Learn more about the new AIM-30 Compass